Ring Finishing with Cratex
Ring Finishing with Cratex — Inside, Outside, and Everything In Between
Rings are the most common piece jewelers finish, and they're also one of the most challenging. You've got convex exterior surfaces, concave interior surfaces, flat band faces, and transitions between all of them. Each demands a different approach.
Cratex rubber-bonded abrasives handle all of it. The rubber bond conforms to curves instead of fighting them, and the range of shapes means you've always got the right tool for the geometry in front of you.
Exterior Ring Surfaces
The outside of a ring is where most finishing starts. Whether it's a simple band or a complex carved design, you need a tool that follows the curve without flattening it.
- Small wheels — Your primary tool for exterior ring surfaces. The flat edge works tangent to the ring, following the curve naturally. Start with the grit that matches your surface condition.
- MX wheels — For final pre-polish on precious metals. After your standard grit progression, one pass with MX wheels eliminates the last scratch pattern.
Technique: Hold the ring on a mandrel or ring clamp. Run your flex shaft at moderate speed (8,000–15,000 RPM). Touch the wheel to the surface and let it follow the curve — don't press hard. The rubber does the work.
Interior Ring Surfaces
The inside of a ring is where most jewelers struggle. Sandpaper wrapped around a dowel tears and leaves uneven scratches. Split mandrel drums work but are aggressive.
- Bullet points — The rounded tip follows the interior curve naturally. Work in long strokes along the inside of the band.
- Cylinder points — For flat-bottomed interiors on wider bands. The straight sides give you even contact.
- Hand sticks — For final hand finishing inside the band when you want maximum control.
Technique: Lower speed for interiors (5,000–10,000 RPM). The confined space concentrates heat, so keep the tool moving. Work in overlapping passes rather than staying in one spot.
Grit Selection by Metal
- Sterling silver — Start at Medium (brown) for most post-fabrication work. Silver is soft and Coarse can leave deep marks that take extra steps to remove.
- Gold (14k–18k) — Medium or Fine depending on surface condition. Gold work-hardens quickly, so lighter pressure and finer starting grits save time.
- Platinum — Start at Medium. Platinum is tough and can handle more aggressive starting grits. The rubber bond is ideal because it won't load with platinum debris the way sandpaper does.
- Copper and brass — Coarse or Medium. These softer metals respond well to the full four-grit progression.
Common Ring Finishing Mistakes
- Too much pressure — Let the abrasive do the cutting. Heavy pressure generates heat and can warp thin bands.
- Skipping grits — Each grit removes the scratch pattern of the previous one. Skip a grit and you'll chase scratches forever.
- Wrong speed — Too fast generates heat and can melt the rubber. Too slow doesn't cut efficiently. 8,000–15,000 RPM is the sweet spot for most work.
- Ignoring interior surfaces — Your customer feels the inside of the ring more than they see the outside. Finish it properly.
Recommended Products
Jeweler's Starter Finishing Kit — $125
Wheels for exteriors, points for interiors, all four grits. The complete ring finishing setup.
Precious Metal Polish Kit — $120
MX wheels for the final pre-polish step. Takes your ring from Extra Fine to mirror-ready.
Cratex Mini Wheel Kit No. 107 — $58.28
12 wheels in 3 sizes across all 4 grits. The core tool for ring exteriors.
Cratex Mini Point Kit No. 167 — $58.28
Assorted point shapes for ring interiors and detail areas.