The Complete Knife Making Supplies Checklist for Beginners

So you've decided to make your first knife. You've watched the YouTube videos, you're excited — and now you're staring at a blank browser tab wondering what you actually need to buy.

This checklist covers the essentials. Not every tool under the sun — just what you need to go from raw steel to a finished blade without wasting money on things you don't need yet.

The Essentials: Steel & Handle Material

  • Steel: Start with 1084 or 1075 high carbon steel. Forgiving to heat treat, widely available, grinds well. Avoid stainless for your first build.
  • Handle material: Micarta or G10 for your first knife — stable, predictable, easy to shape. Wood looks great but requires more care.
  • Pins or bolts: Brass or mosaic pins. 1/4" is standard for most handles.
  • Epoxy: G/flex 655 is the standard. Strong, flexible, gap-filling.

Grinding & Shaping

  • Angle grinder + flap discs: For rough profiling if you don't have a belt grinder yet.
  • Belt grinder: The biggest upgrade you can make. A 1x30 will work; a 2x72 is the industry standard.
  • Belt assortment: 36, 60, 120, 220 grit. You'll go through 36 and 60 the fastest.
  • Files: A set of bastard-cut files for work the grinder can't reach — especially plunge lines.

Heat Treatment

  • Forge or kiln: A propane forge works for 1084. A kiln gives better temperature control.
  • Parks 50 or canola oil: For quenching. Parks 50 is faster; canola works fine for 1084.
  • Safety gear: Leather gloves rated for hot steel. Not welding gloves — knifemaking gloves.
  • Fire brick: For the forge floor. Cheap and saves your propane.

Finishing Abrasives — The Part Most Beginners Get Wrong

This is where most first-timers stall out. You've got a heat-treated blade, and now you need to get it from 120 grit to a refined finish — and sandpaper on a flat bar only gets you so far.

Rubber abrasive wheels (like Cratex) are what professional knife makers use for final finishing. They're flexible, self-dressing, and won't leave flat spots. You mount them in a Dremel or Foredom flex shaft and work through grits.

A typical finishing progression for a knife blade:

  1. 120 grit rubber wheel — remove belt grinder scratches
  2. 220 grit rubber wheel — refine the surface
  3. 400 grit rubber wheel — pre-polish
  4. 600+ or rouge compound — mirror finish (optional)

The Knife Maker Starter Kit bundles the most commonly used Cratex wheels in one order — saves time figuring out which shapes and grits to start with.

Drilling & Assembly

  • Drill press: Critical for straight pin holes. A handheld drill will angle and your handle will show it.
  • Cobalt drill bits: For drilling hardened steel. Standard HSS bits won't last.
  • Clamps: You'll need at least 4 for glue-up. Spring clamps work; bar clamps are better.

Safety

  • Face shield (not just safety glasses) for grinding
  • N95 or better for handle material dust (Micarta dust is nasty)
  • Leather apron
  • Fire extinguisher near the forge

What You Can Wait On

You don't need these for your first knife — add them when you're building regularly:

  • Surface grinder or disc sander
  • Buffing wheel setup
  • Oven for tempering (use a toaster oven at first)
  • Leather strop

Total Starter Budget

Realistic first-knife budget: $300–600 depending on what you already own. The biggest variables are whether you have a grinder and whether you buy or build your forge.

Don't over-buy before your first blade. Make one knife, figure out what slowed you down, then buy that thing next.

Questions about finishing abrasives for your first blade? Get in touch — we're happy to point you at the right grit for your steel and your goals.

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